Wednesday, 7 May 2014

Day 7. Hawes to Kirkby Stephen

 Hello, I am sitting in the lounge at Kirkby Stephen Hostel. This used to belong to the YHA, but now is privately owned and still run as a hostel. Not many in tonight, I appear to be the only female. Pasta again for dinner tonight. 
I got a bit wet today, I tell a lie, I got chuffin soaked today, ha ha. It rained all day, and the only thing dry was the contents of my rucksack, only because I had lined it with a plastic bag, and put everything in smaller bags. I was drenched through to the skin. I must say that walking for seven hours in the pouring rain, up hill and down dale for sixteen miles, is far more knackering than running a 5k. As soon as I got to the hostel it was a complete strip off and change of clothes, with all the wet ones going in the drying room. 
Not many pictures taken today I'm afraid, best keep the camera under wraps. A few of Hawes as I was leaving. I must come back and have a better look around, preferably on a sunny day. An upmarket food store in competition with the Spar shop. 
Lots of mouthwatering yummy sweets in the window. No I didn't buy any.

Someone at the hostel said it was a steam day today.

I left Hawes village on the Pennine Way, following the stone footpath across the fields. Hardraw is another pretty village.

Some crochet hanging up at the entrance to the church yard. I thought this was a lovely idea. 
More crochet decorations.

And here is little Puddytat. Yes he has been with me all the way. He has to go under cover now as the rain is coming down harder.

From Hardraw I took a B road and joined the A684 for about a mile, then I left the road to walk along a wide path called Lady Anne's Way. Web site here. Can you see the line of the wall going up there in the distance. I followed that wall over the hill as far as you can see and a lot further. Boy was that climb steep. The wind and rain were buffeting me about, and it didn't stop all day.

This is looking down to where I had come from. The clouds and mist were swirling about above me spoiling the views. This is such a beautiful walk, or it would be on a nice day. Below is the railway line, and the river, and the main road. Only me and the sheep today, I didn't see another soul up there. The water was gushing down the gulleys and I had to jump across quite a few. 
One more photo before I put the camera away in a dry place. A derelict house, there are several of them up here that have been left to go to rack and ruin.

After eight miles up in the hills I eventually reached the road, and decided to stay on the road and walk as fast as I could because I needed to get out of my wet clothes. The hostel owner was out with her dog, but arrived back soon after I got there. The hostel used to be a church, the pews are still used as benches. The place is carpeted and is very cosy. £20 for a bed for the night, plus breakfast. I am having a change tomorrow, getting a bit bored with a cooked breakfast, so I'm going continental.

I'm heading towards Appleby tomorrow. It's only about 10 or 11 miles away so too soon to stop. Kirkby Stephen to Penrith is too far, so I need to have another night out, I'm looking for a bed a few miles past Appleby, ideally leaving me a mornings walk on Friday, then I can go straight to the station for a train back home in the afternoon. That's the plan anyway. Not much further to go now, nearly finished. 16.47 miles today. I'll catch you tomorrow. Hope the weather is better. Toodle pip.


  1. That looks like a lovely area for walking. I've driven through somewhere near there and said I'd love to go back and explore the area one day. What a lovely hostel it looks. I hope tomorrow is dry for you!

  2. Another full day,and a sleep in a church! I know some people who always sleep in church.
    Jane x

  3. I enjoyed your day Ilona, sorry it was so wet,I am glad you are safe and warm tonight.
    Please let it be dry for you tomorrow.
    Thinking of you and sending love.
    Pam in TX.

  4. I forgot to say yesterday, how much I enjoyed seeing the AA box.
    What memories that brought back. As children my brother and I filled the time in the family car, spotting those and the RAC boxes. Hoping also to see an AA man on a motorbike and sidecar and get a salute. Which they did in those days when you displayed an AA badge on your car.
    Pam in TX,

  5. That looks like a nice hostel to get warm and dry and rest up for tomorrow. I love the strawberry tablecloths! I wouldn't mind moving into that pretty stone house.

  6. You said you had no intention of walking on the Pennine Way with the other hordes of people! I told you there weren't hordes of people! I've walked the whole of the Pennine Way many times and usually don't see a soul.
    Appleby is nice (except when it's the horse fair, much too busy then) hope you have good weather tomorrow.

  7. Hi Ilona
    Loved your photos today especially the contrast between the pretty villages and the beautiful hilly areas !
    As I love crocheting those photos at the church are just gorgeous.
    I hope the weather is dry for you tomorrow. I'm glad you found a cosy and warm place to stay. Keep warm.
    AussieCheryl : )

  8. I'm a sucker for a sweet shop and that one looks lush x

  9. Sixteen miles in the pouring rain??? Ilona you are a beggar for punishment ! I would have been inclined to bunk down in the little stone house.

  10. Hope you had a warm and cosy night's rest. All the rain and wind must have been daunting!

  11. I was wondering how heavy your rucksack is? It must add a good bit of weight.

  12. Hi Elona, I'm very curious to know more about the hostels, they seem great value for money and I remember many years ago staying in one as a girl guide. Can you take some photos of the sleeping arrangements and comment on privacy and security of your stuff please?

  13. Reminds me of my Kirkby Stephen trip last September when I walked up to the Nine Standards. It's beautiful part of the world. Enjoy the rest of your trip x

  14. What a beautiful part of the country! At least you can get everything dried off overnight. We've got soaked through so many times while camping and everything just stays wet! I now pack a couple of newspapers to stuff in wet boots/shoes overnight so at least they're dry in the morning. I've really enjoyed following your holiday x

  15. Hope you get a sunny finish, at least!

  16. There's nothing worse than being soaked to the skin :-(

    I hate to see lovely old cottages going to rack and ruin, all abandoned and lonely, it brings out the property developer in me, imagining what I could do with them.

    Good use of an old church and it's furnishings there, nice that they've made it all cosy.

  17. You are in such a lovely area, even if it is raining. The Eden Valley is beautiful and Appleby used to be one of our favourite places.
    Good luck with today`s walk and I hope it stops raining!

  18. I'm sorry the weather was so rainy. I hope you were able to get some rest last night in the church/hostel; it looks peaceful and lovely.
    The pictures are beautiful. I would love to travel Lady Anne's way someday. What gorgeous views!
    What has been your favorite part of your walk?
    Hope you have better walking weather today. Thanks for sharing your journey with us!

  19. Danneke here, The shop in Hawes that you called upmarket, is where I can get very good quality bread flour from when I go there, its freshly milled and strong and makes very good bread. Did you see the creamery, they have some great samples to try of various cheeses when their shop is open, the samples make a good morning snack. I have often take a ride to Hawes when the weather is good , will do it again after my next operation. Going in on the 27th of this month, just hoping I will be in and out in a few days & not like last time. Hope the weather gets better for you Ilona but afraid the forcast does not sound too good for the next few days here in N/Yorkshire areas. Good Luck tho.

  20. Well done Ilona the weather has been horrid today. I'm really enjoying reading about your walk. The church hostel is so pretty. Not far to go now
    Twiggy x

  21. What an inspiring woman you are, and such a great outlook on life. I have always wanted to do a walk along a famous track in Scotland, my other half doesn't enjoy walking. Tonight after various research on internet, l have planned to do the first part of the trail 5 miles next week. I will be dropped off and collect later at certain arranged point. I am hoping to build up in the near future a track off two days in the wonderful county side of Scotland. x


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