Day 3. Crowdicote, Longnor, Earl Sterndale, Pennine Bridleway

Twas an even more glorious morning on the third day of my mini frugal break, I was so looking forward to it. A fellow hosteller told me of a route that gave particularly nice views with easy walking, which he had done the day before. He said it was well way marked, that will do me. I took his advice and set off northwards. Very soon I was leaving the tarmac lane and hopping over a stile into a field.

There was a couple of miles or so with views like this. Absolutely fabulous.

I came to a cross roads and took a left turn. Thank you whoever for putting a lovely new sign post there for me.

These little marker posts kept me on the right track.

Oooh look, I came across a castle.

And here is the castle. Not much left.

I climbed to the top to admire the views.

You can see the path down there which I am going to take.

A bit further on I joined a farm track which came out on the road at Crowdicote. A typical Peak District pub, the Pack Horse Inn.

And some attractive cottages next door. It's a very small village, I was surprised to even see a pub.

The next stop was Longnor, quite a large village with several eating places. There is a craft centre with a coffee shop, but it was difficult to take a good photo of it due to all the parked cars at the front. Shame really, it was an interesting building, but if I can't get the right shot I wont bother. This pub across the road was uncluttered though. The Cheshire Cheese looks very inviting. I can just imagine the blazing log fire inside. I sat on a bench and ate my sandwiches. Not their bench I hasten to add.

Off again across the fields. This photo makes it look more gloomy than it actually was because I have the hazey sun behind me. A few clouds about but still no rain.

It wasn't far to the next village, Earl Sterndale, and the path comes in, across a boggy field, just behind this pub. I must say the back of the pub looks a complete ramshackle mess. I was half thinking it might be a derelict pub till I saw they were open at the front.

I like the sign though, made me smile. The story goes that the landlords wife nagged him that much, he chopped off her head. It's a Marstons pub, beer brewed in my home town. You can't beat a pint of Marstons Pedigree, it's known the whole world over.

This is St Michael's Church.

The small Methodist Church.

And here we have The Hall, well that's what it says on the front :o) Clever aint I.

I really would like to go and climb up High Wheeldon over there, but I haven't time. I carried on to join the High Peak Trail, which is also The Mid Shires Way, leading onto The Pennine Bridleway. Then followed a failry brisk march past Sparklow, turn right at Moscar Farm, and join the road at Vincent Farm.

And this is what I found at Vincent Farm, my path was blocked by a bunch of mooing, pushing and shoving cows. I asked the farmer what was happening. He said they are sorting them out, pairing up the mothers and calves, before putting them in their winter housing, basically big sheds. There they will stay untill May.

The farmer pointed out a diversion I should take to get round them and out the other side to the road. Then it was a case of following the road back to the hostel. I've had a brilliant day, even better than yesterday. I've covered 14.5 miles, more than yesterday because I didn't get lost, a total of 28 miles over the three days. All I have to do now is to drive home, a happy bunny.

Day 2. Hartington, Biggin Dale, Alstonefield

Twas a lovely sunny morning when I set off on Wednesday. This kind of start to the day is so uplifting. There is happiness in my heart, and a sense of freedom which makes me want to fly, so with map in hand I am looking forward to what the day has in store for me.

I turned left out of the hostel, and set off down Highfield Lane to the right.

Eventually arriving at the start of Biggin Dale.



Eventually the path joins the River Dove, and I followed it down to Coldeaton Bridge.

This is a photo taken looking back, the path is well worn along here as it's a very popular route.

At Coldeaton Bridge I crossed the river and climbed up the steep Gypsy Bank. There's the bridge down there. I didn't want to continue any further down the river because it leads to Mill Dale and Dove Dale, two areas where I have walked before.

The view from the top of the bank. I sat and had a bite to eat at this point, just to take in how wonderful it is here. Right across on the opposite side of the valley I can see tiny figures walking along the top, they are on the Tissington Trail, a disused railway line that has been turned into a long distance path.

It was a short distance to the village of Alstonefield. This is the old Methodist Chapel which now houses a furniture making enterprise which uses traditional methods using real wood. It looks as though someone also lives there, as a ready made up bed is visible through the left hand window. I've always fancied living in a converted church or chapel.

This is St Peters Church, there was signs of activity inside so I didn't venture in as my boots were caked in mud. They were getting ready for a four day event, The Festival of Angels.

Most of the villages I have visited in Derbyshire have had a Reading Room sign on one of the houses. This one dates back to the 1820's.

After a bite to eat I sat on a bench opposite the village pub, I decided to start heading back as it had begun to cloud over a little and the threat of rain loomed.

If my hostel at Hartington is at the top end of the scale as regards luxury accommodation, then this has to be at the bottom end. The YHA also have Camping Barns, which are really only one step up from a tent. They have the most basic of amenities, and are very cheap to stay at. This is four walls and a roof, and will cost you £7.50 a night. Inside there is a communal cooking area with picnic bench type seating, toilet and wash basin, and a seperate sleeping area upstairs for twelve people. Basically you would need to carry everything you need for camping, except the tent.

I lost my way a bit on the next part of the walk. Skirting round the edge of Narrowdale Hill, there should have been a path off to the left, just after passing the derelict buildings of Narrow Dale Farm. I couldn't find it because it wasn't signed, and everywhere I looked was just like any other mud bath at the entrance to a field. Luckily my knight in shining armour was to appear, and show me the way.

Earlier in the day I was aware that a lone male was following me, quite a good way back. Not to worry, as long as he keeps his distance I thought, I kept my eye on him and kept checking his whereabouts. Then I stopped to talk to a group of three men, who reminded me of the three old boys from 'Last of the Summer Wine', and the lone walker passed us. A bit further along he stopped for a drink from his flask, and I passed him. Looks harmless I thought, just a walker like me. As I crossed the bridge and looked back I noticed that he had carried on along the river. Hmmm, I wonder if he might be doing a circle like me, and he would catch me up later.

I was right in my assumptions, there he was, just when I needed to ask someone the way. He told me he was checking out a route for a ramblers walk he was leading the following week, and by luck he had walked that particular route a few years ago, he was refreshing his memory. He looked genuine to me, so we walked together back to Hartington to where he had parked his car.

There was time for a little bimble around the village, maybe an hour of daylight left. This house is opposite the car park and toilets, don't know anything about it but I thought it looks interesting.

This is the Charles Cotton Hotel, which has been providing food and accommodation for the past 275 years.

Across the road is the Devonshire Arms pub.

St Giles Church stands high up overlooking the village.

I took a peek inside and found this colourful display, entitled, 'How the World Was Made.' Looks like a community effort, I bet they had a lot of fun making it.

I still had a little bit of daylight left so I did a short circular walk to fill the time. Luckily it hadn't rained so I returned with dry clothes. Back at the hostel it was stew for dinner again, this self catering is saving me a fortune. A quiet night in front of the fire tonight, with piles of magazines and papers to read. A few other people were staying, but the place is that big we were hardly sitting on top of each other. Plenty of room to spread yourself about. Toodle pip.

Hartington Hall Youth Hostel. The place to stay

It's not very often you get to stay at a four star hotel at a cost of £8 a night. I arrived in the dark, and discovered the following morning just how grand Hartington Hall looked from the outside. The manor house was built in 1611 by Robert Bateman, and in 1862 it underwent substantial alterations. The Batemans remained at Hartington until the 20th century and in 1934 the property was opened as a Youth Hostel.

This is one of three entrances off the road, it leads to the front door and straight into Eliza's Restaurant, which is open to the public as well as hostel guests.

It has extensive grounds and is licensed for civil weddings. To the right is a covered veranda with outdoor seating.


On the left is a long sweeping driveway up to the back of the house. I missed the first entrance in the dark for the car park, and drove right up to the house and parked there. No one asked me to move it so there it stayed.



At the back is a small pets enclosure with three goats in one pen, and big fluffy bunnies and clucking hens, in the other.

Across the courtyard is a converted barn which houses more dormitories, a meeting room, drying room, members self catering kitchen, and a laundry.

This is the main lounge with big soft sofas,

a wood burning stove,

and piles of magazines to read. Unfortunately the TV was out of order.

Another stove in the adjoining lounge area.

More sofas and oak paneling.

Part of the dining room, with huge old fashioned cast iron windows set in stone.

And a bit more of the dining room. These two enjoying their breakfast were the lovely people who spotted me from the tele.

Two more pics of the extensive dining and lounge area. This looks like a cosy pub, and yes you can get a drink here, they are licensed.



The reception desk with a friendly chappie eager to help.

There is a reading room, with a computer.

A games room where you can play pool, a table soccer game, and games for younger children.


I didn't take a pic of my room. It had eight beds, I shared with one other lady on the first night, and had it to myself on the second night. There was a wash basin in the room, and also a shower cubicle. The toilet was next door but one, which was no problem because there was hardly anyone else there. I would definately stay here again, even at the full price it is still very good value. I'll catch you later.

Day 1. A bimble round Matlock

I really should be saying Good Morning, but as I have been a bit of a slacker today I will amend that to Good Afternoon. The reason for my bone idleness? Watching last nights 'Ultimate Guide to Pennypinching' on Channel 4 catchup, and reading all the comments about it on Money Saving Expert forum. Got to keep up with what's going on haven't I, ha ha.

Anyway, what have I been up to for the past three days. My apologies for one measly post from the hostel, but at 50p for ten minutes, or £5 for 24 hours, whether on their computer or my own, I didn't feel inclined to spend the money. What a tight arse I am, ha ha.

As I mentioned, I stopped for a bimble around Matlock on the way to Hartington on Tuesday. The weather wasn't brilliant, very windy. Although I don't mind the wind, later on it developed into a full blow gale and I got a bit wet. Not ideal for taking photo's but I tried my best.

Riber Castle is a distinct landmark which towers over the town, set high up on the hillside. A place I have not been to before so I headed in that direction. It looks very spooky from a distance. It was built in 1862 by John Smedley as his private home. He died before it's completion, but his wife continued to live in it untill her death. The castle then became a school, but was a derelict shell by the 1930's. In the 1960's a group of zoologists set up a nature reserve there, which operated at near bankruptcy for many years. It had a reputation for cruelty and neglect of it's animals and was finaly closed down in September 2000. It was also used as a set for filming, 'Dead Man's Shoes'.

Turning round to admire the view from half way up the hill.

And again from near the top of the hill. Looking down on Matlock.

The final push to the top along this path which has been partly cleared and improved.

This is as near as I can get. The grounds are surrounded by tall fencing, it looks magnificent. Apparently they used a series of pulleys to haul the blocks of stone up there.

If you want to see some pictures of the interior I have found this video on youtube. Ignore the silly music and the ghostly tales, it will give you some idea of just how derelict it is. Apparently now the plan is to turn it into appartments, but there is a lot of local opposition. Around the back there is a lot of work going on, but I am not sure if this is part of the plan, or they are just making it secure. I couldn't get anywhere near it to ask.



Another look down before I move on.

In the hamlet of Riber is this very old house. It looks uninhabited and amazingly spooky. There is a sign on the front saying Antique Centre, and looking through the windows I saw signs of old furniture.

Steps to the front door. The property to the left hand side at the rear looks to be inhabited, the front is perhaps used for the selling of antiques.

The weather was worsening, more wind and the real threat of rain, so I went back down to my car. Didn't quite make it before the heavens opened and I got a bit wet. After ten minutes or so of torrential downpour when the roads turned to rivers, and I had a bit to eat, I decided to venture out for another little bimble. This time towards another vantage point, High Tor. I set off and viewed the castle from afar.

After quite a bit of steep climbing, I came across this handy little shelter, no time to sit down though as I didn't think the rain was going to hold off for very long.

The pics are not very good, it's a shame because on a clear day the views would be magnificent. This is looking down on the main A6 trunk road, the River Derwent, and the railway line that runs alongside.

Same road, a bit further along. The wind was getting up again, nothing to stop me from toppling over the edge, I stood well back, ha ha.

Time to get back in the car, starting to run out of daylight now and it's only 3pm. I decided to make a short stop at Matlock Bath, and climb up behind the houses to take some pics looking down. My mum used to take us on bus trips here. Day trips were the only holidays we had. I also came to the Matlock Bath Hotel for a posh dinner when I was a child, it was a choir trip which was organised by the Methodist Church, of which I was a member. I remember it well.

I took numerous pics of this scene, but the lighting was not good. I've done my best with a bit of titivating. The street lights are reflecting on the river, and it gives you some idea of how people build their gardens on the steep terraces. One thing I did notice that while it looks like a beautiful place to live, there is the constant drone of traffic noise. Something I would not like one bit.

This is a busy tourist place in the summer, it is teeming with people. It's also a well know bikers meet up place, they come from all over to show off their bikes and admire each others. Yes, I have been here as a biker as well.

Daylight was fading fast and shops were closing, no point in hanging around so I headed off to Hartington. When I got there I couldn't see much of the outside of the building in the dark, but hey, the inside was amazing, I was gobsmacked that this place was so cheap to stay at. More tomorrow.

A good lungfull of farmyard pong !

I love my short frugal breaks, a change of scenery, new places to explore, it's very uplifting and keeps me sane. I've had two days of fantastic walking. Hardly had to wear a jacket at all, my body warmer over a fleecy top and sweatshirt was enough to keep me warm. I've been up and down hills, sloshing through muddy fields full of cow dung, paddling through more cow dung in farmyards, and clambering over stiles set in stone walls. It's been flippin fantastic.

I see Annie has asked a couple of questions about my walking. Hi Annie. Do I always go to the Derbyshire Peak District? No Annie, I go anywhere I want to go, but I have to think of cost. The reason I chose the hostels at Eyam and Hartington is because they are part of the special out of season offer. £8 and £10 per night. I am constantly checking the YHA web site for availability and prices. I also have to think of my travel expenses, and try to use the hostels which are nearest to me, to save on petrol costs.

You also asked if I have had any problems on walks, I assume you mean walking alone. No I haven't. I take precautions, always look around me, be aware of my surroundings, check no one is following me. I feel safest when I am the only person there. The fact that I don't see anyone for ages is a bonus for me, I love the isolation, I am very happy in my own company. I think you have more chance of being attacked in a town centre, now that does make me a bit nervous.

Well tonight I am sitting here all wrapped up in a chilly house. Last night I was sweltering hot lounging on a comfy sofa with my feet up, next to a roaring fire. It was pure bliss. I'd had a hot shower after my walk, and there was a healthy glow in my cheeks. The hostel was probably the best one I have ever stayed in, and all for £8 per night. You will see what I mean when I post the pics, definately five star status.
My brain is shutting down for the night, I'll catch you tomorrow. Toodle pip